Wednesday, November 03, 2010
culottes continued
hopefully this is understandable,I am not a teacher
if doing this in full scale then ignore all reference to the scale ruler
the sketches should help
the X X X marks in the sketch are very important
you can lift the fabric a bit at these points to help you control the flare ,then attach to a narrow waist band
redoing theinstructions for the culottes
the pattern was based on a complete front draped on a bottle ,but any complete front works
the pattern is cut in half at the centre front
place on a new piece of paper and glue down
extend the cf line to the lenght required
square out from the cf to the side seam to make the hem line
put a ruler on the waist line at the side and the hip line at the side seam
rule down the join the line at the hem line
this will add some flare
make a dot at halfway between the dart ends
draw a line from this dot to the bottom of the dart
contine this line down the the hem line
the body rise is needed to allow us to make the skirt into culottes
sit the person on a hard chair and measure from waist to chair seat and add one inch for ease
more ease can be added if you want
bottle is approx one quarter size,it measures ten inches at the hip level ,so that would be a forth inch hip at full scale
body rise for a person with forth inch hips would be approx twelve inches
using dons scale ruler or any quarter scale ruler place a dot at twelve inches down from A ,call this dot C
square out from C_D this measurement is one eighth of hip measurement,that is five inches
sqare down to the hem line
this extension is the bit that goes between the legs
to help get a nice curve ,rule a line from C at a forty five degree angle and measure up this line one and a half inches
to obtain flare cut out pattern and place on new paper
place a dot on waist,halfway from side seam to dart
place a dat on waist halfway from other side of dart to cf
place square on hip line and square up to dots
carry on down to hem line
cut and open the line to the bottom of the dart and close dart
cut and open the lines just squred down